A detour guide to Montreal: Off-route alternatives to the usual suspects

Montreal's pantheon of iconic stops is robust, but you’ve probably heard those names, if not waited in line for some of them a hundred times. They’re classics for a reason, no doubt, but this city rewards curiosity. The good stuff isn’t always front and centre. It’s often on the beaten path, hiding in plain sight, in-the-know, or cooking out of a kitchen or served at a bar with barely (if any) digital footprint.

This isn’t about calling anyone out. It’s about giving you options. Whether it’s your first visit or your fifth, or you call Montreal home, these off-route alternatives offer a different inroad that still feels deep and distinct to the city. Think of it less as a rejection of the usual recommendations and more like taking the scenic route.

Everybody goes to… La Banquise

Open 24/7 and stacked with topping combos that read more like double dares, La Banquise often—if not always—at the top of people's lists for "must-try poutine". It’s not subtle, and it’s rarely quiet, and the chaos of its late-night services is part of the charm. Just know that at certain hours, the line wraps around the block—and yes, you will hear someone complain that it’s “not as good as it used to be.”

Take the alternate route: Chez Ma Tante

Poutine being as ubiquitous as it is in Quebec, it can difficult to know where else one can go to make sure they're eating the Platonic ideal of the dish. One need only think of Chez Ma Tante: A standing room-only diner in the truest sense of the word with all the retro interior fixings (plus endearing photos of 'customers of the year' on the wall), this institution that was improbably established in 1929 makes a great poutine that should be ordered alongside their classic steamé hot dogs.

Everybody goes to… Schwartz’s

Incredibly popular, Schwartz's is more of a pilgrimage site than a deli. The fame of its smoked meat precedes its address, where the decor sits largely unchanged since your father's bachelor party. Line-ups build up like clockwork, and the wait can feel eternal; once you nab a stool or table, you don't want to rush out of there. There’s something about that first juicy, peppery, piled high on rye bite that keeps people coming back, even if they’re elbow-to-elbow with a YouTube influencer and some grump complaining how things "ain't what they used to be".

Take the alternate route: Felix Mish

The term "hidden gem" is being thrown around far too much, but in the case of Les Aliments Felix Mish, there really is no better term to describe this delicatessen in Ville-Émard. With its non-steamed approach to smoked meat, the delicious and cheap sandwiches that result from it, and incomparably endearing shop it's served from by a close-knit family, you couldn't have a more intimate experience.

Everybody goes to… Ma Poule Mouillée

Ma Poule Mouillée's churrascaria tends to be top of mind for its Portuguese chicken: Crispy skin, tangy sauce, and a solid poutine made with both cheese curds and São Jorge cheese. But this Plateau institution moves at a frenetic pace—tight quarters and at times long waits among what feels like a constant stream of customers. Worth it? Sure. But definitely not your only option.

Take the alternate route: Portugalia

Don't be fooled by Portugalia's small footprint on Montreal's collective consciousness. It has survived the passing years by becoming a reliable, family-run spot since the early ’90s, known for slow-marinated chicken, smoky ribs, pork cutlets, layered poutine, and loaded bifanas. It’s unfussy, deeply local, and full of regulars who swear by it. You can eat in, grab it to go, or wander down to the park and make a meal of it. Best of all, there are rarely lineups and never any gimmicks.

Everybody goes to… Saint-Laurent Boulevard for the street art

After years of MURAL Festival, a swathe of Saint-Laurent Boulevard has become an open-air gallery, where every other wall seems to get blasted with a fresh coat of colour. While the art is undeniably impressive, the sheer volume of it without a clear map can make experiencing a bit more exhausting than inspiring at times.

Take the alternate route: Rouen tunnel

Rather than locking murals in place, the De Rouen Tunnel lets them breathe. This legal graffiti tunnel in Hochelaga is one of the few spots in the city where spray paint is permitted. The work turns over constantly, with writers, crews, and artists cycling through in real time. One day it’s wildstyle burners, the next it’s full-blown pieces getting buffed by something new. You don't come here for pomp and permanence, you’re coming to catch it in motion.

Everybody goes to… Olimpico

If you’ve ever wondered what would happen if half the city tried to get espresso at the same time, head to Olimpico on a weekend morning. The coffee and energy of the place is consistently solid, and you’ll find all manner of artists and entrepreneurs in deep conversation or aloof lotus-eating. Oftentimes, however, the days that seem perfect to sit on its terrasse are the days you won't find a seat there.

Take the alternate route: Caffè Italia

Opened in 1956 and still run by the same family, Caffè Italia is less of a café and more of a living room for Little Italy that begets slowing down for the afternoon. It makes the compelling argument that one may only need espresso served at a bar, some cannoli, and a loyal crowd that spans generations to feel at peace. It's also pure and original, and tends to dodge mentions in travel guides.

Everybody goes to… The Kondiaronk Belvedere

Arguably the city’s most photographed view—and for good reason. From the sweeping panorama of downtown to the Saint Lawrence River glinting in the distance, this lookout on Mount Royal delivers the postcard moment in spades. But getting there often means dodging tour groups, drone operators, and wedding parties staging romantic dips. And once you’re up there, you’re rarely alone. If you’re after a quiet connection with the cityscape, this isn’t where you’ll find it.

Take the alternate route: The Pointe-Saint-Charles Observation Deck

You won’t find signage or tour groups here—just a concrete wall at the edge of a quiet street with one of the most underrated views in the city. From this modest perch near Parc Marguerite-Bourgeoys, you get downtown framed by rail lines and rooftops, with just enough elevation to feel like a secret. At golden hour, it’s pure atmosphere, a reminder that sometimes the best lookout isn’t on a mountain, but on the margins.

Everybody goes to… Parc La Fontaine

Every summer, parks in Montreal become some of the busiest—if not the busiest—social hubs in city, but this is especially true at known names like Parc La Fontaine. It’s beautiful, sure, but by peak season it can feel like all of Montreal has decided to show up for the same park bench or plot of grass. You’ll find peace here, but you might have to wait for it.

Take the alternate route: Baldwin Park

Smaller and calmer than its Plateau neighbour of Parc La Fontaine and only a few minutes walking stroll from it, Parc Baldwin trades grandeur for intimacy: mature trees, quiet diagonals, and a modest emotional centre of the space taking the form of lazy fountain. Locals who know it return often, season after season, drawn to the slow rhythm of the water and the shade that moves with it. It’s not a spectacle, but a setting, and a deeply charming one at that.

Everybody goes to… Old Montreal

Cobblestones, overpriced sangria, tourist traps. Old Montreal is a well-preserved diorama of colonial charm and tourist ambition. Highly trafficked, it’s where cruise passengers disembark and bachelor parties rise and fall. The architecture is stunning, and the history is real, but so are the souvenir shops and lack of local hangouts.

Take the alternate route: Little Burgundy

Once known as the Harlem of the North, this neighbourhood gave rise to Canadian jazz legends like Oscar Peterson and Oliver Jones, and you can still feel that rhythm in the murals, parks, and stories etched into every block (let alone jazz nights at Badin). The Lachine Canal runs alongside rows of 19th-century houses, industrial relics, and one of the city’s best restaurant strips. You’ll find antique shops instead of galleries, far better restaurants and bars, and community gardens instead of boutiques.

Everybody goes to… The Underground City

What began as a winter workaround has turned into a maze of corridors, food courts, and subterranean sections of office towers stitched together with signage that may or may not lead where you think. For newcomers, it’s a novelty, but for locals, it’s mostly a way to dodge February. There’s something oddly thrilling about never stepping outside for blocks on end—but once the sun’s out, you start to wonder why you’re still wandering beneath it.

Take the alternate route: Plaza Saint-Hubert

This 1.2-km strip between Bellechasse and Jean-Talon has always been a little strange in the best way. Once known for discount gowns and neon signage, Plaza Saint-Hubert is now home to all manner of dumpling counters, tiki bars, contemporary art, and restaurants both long-lauded and boldly new. There’s line-dancing, Mexican street food, and scallop sashimi served on plastic dinosaurs. It’s part Latin enclave, part punk mall, part culinary playground. Covered(-ish) sidewalks keep it walkable year-round, but what makes the Plaza worth exploring is that you never quite know what you’ll find next.

Everybody goes to… The Plateau

It’s the Montreal fantasy in widescreen: pastel triplexes, indie bookshops, terrasses full of people who all seem to be in—or are planning to be in—a band. And yes, the bagels are good, but the Plateau’s charm has been thoroughly documented and apartment prices have caught up with the hype. It's a great neighbourhood, but it's definitely not the only great one.

Take the alternate route: Mile-Ex

Not to be confused with the Mile End, Mile-Ex is a small neighbourhood pocket that neighbours Little Italy. Inside this small area of reclaimed garages, one can uncover a discreet scene of exciting places. These include everything from Arcade Mile-Ex and the festive brewery WILLS to the composed Café Even and mainstays like Dépanneur Le Pick Up just over its border.

Everybody goes to… St. Joseph’s Oratory

Perched high above Côte-des-Neiges, the Oratory is awe-inspiring in scale and steeped in miracles, real or otherwise. Pilgrims climb its steps on their knees or ride the escalator of its new entrance, but whichever path is taken, the structure's grandeur is hard to ignore. But with its gift shop and historical plaques, it's not always the experience one hopes to find.

Take the alternate route: Saint Patrick's Basilica

While St. Joseph’s Oratory towers over the city, Saint Patrick’s Basilica (also known as the 'Irish Church') sits quietly in the shadow of downtown skyscrapers. Easy to miss yet impossible to forget, it was built in 1847 for the flood of Irish immigrants fleeing famine, it became the spiritual home of Montreal’s English-speaking Catholics. Inside, the Gothic Revival arches and warm stonework feel more human than monumental. It’s a living parish, still active, still evolving, and still holding space for those navigating new chapters.