Birbante imports the Italian abundance of Milan to Montreal's Mile End

The Italian aperitivo—a beloved pre-meal ritual rooted in Turin’s 18th-century invention of vermouth—has always been more than a drink: It’s a moment, a way of life.

What started as a refined but frugal tradition gave way to Milan’s “happy hour” revolution in the 1980s, where all-you-can-eat buffets redefined the ritual into a social staple for trendy teens and budget-conscious students.

Today, we’ve entered the age of apericena: A portmanteau of aperitivo and cena (dinner), it's a phenomenon blending casual dining with a drink, served at prices and portions that defy its once-elegant origins. Some may lament the focus on quantity over quality, but this evolution reflects deeper societal shifts: a democratization of dining and a reclaiming of informal, accessible pleasures.

And that's what Mile End's new Italian restaurant from brothers Pierpaolo and Davide Sansone of La Panzeria, Birbante, is all about.

"Birbante is an extension of my story and our family’s history... While La Panzeria reflects the traditional dishes of Puglia, Birbante represents my journey in northern Italy—Bologna, Ferrara, Padova, Verona, and Milan."

La dolce vita

It's a notable arrival as it follows La Panzeria's longstanding presence and loyal following thanks to honest Italian experiences and standouts like octopus and burrata sandwiches. The experience at Birbante is no different.

"Birbante is an extension of my story and our family’s history," explains Pierpaolo. "While La Panzeria reflects the traditional dishes of Puglia, Birbante represents my journey in northern Italy—Bologna, Ferrara, Padova, Verona, and Milan."

"Milan especially inspired me with its mix of modernity and old-school charm, particularly the 1970s vibe that’s still present in its cafés, bars, and restaurants."

Showcasing dishes from northern and central Italy—Bologna, Veneto, Lombardia—while still holding onto a Mediterranean identity, the 50-seat restaurant designed by Phil Nadeau serves menus full of dishes like risotto alla milanese, veal chops, and crescentine alla bolognese to enjoy over Italian wines or under the red glow of a wall of Campari.

It's feast here, hence the name: “Birbante” means a mischievous little troublemaker—a brat, in a playful sense. Reflecting the spirit of the osteria, it's "a cozy, unpretentious spot where people feel at home," Pierpaolo says. "I want guests to reconnect with their inner child, relax, and have fun."

The menu's executed by head chef Luka Jadin-Guimond, who cut his teeth at Jatoba and Donato in Westmount. "Over time, I've learned that Italian cuisine is so much more than pizza and pasta—it’s about culture, tradition, and history. Regional differences, knowing why some pastas use semolina while others use flour and egg yolks... this gives you a much greater appreciation for the craft."

Luka describes the menu as one of simplicity and quality, but also depth through dishes inspired by Pierpaolo’s father and the food from his hometown: Fior di latte, grilled and paired with whipped ricotta and a light dressing of vincotto and lemon zest to keep it fresh; light and delicate scallop crudo with a cucumber vinaigrette, blood orange, and a touch of peperoncino oil; and nduja spread paired with with stracciatella, anchovies, and raspberries.

"In the kitchen, I love the teamwork and the people I work with. But most of all, I love seeing customers enjoy the food. There’s so much effort and care that goes into every dish—from the research to the preparation—and seeing someone genuinely enjoy it makes it all worth it," the chef says.

Birbante’s drink menu complements the food offerings by emphasizing balance, with traditional Italian aperitifs like the Garibaldi, the Milano/Torino (MITO), Negronis, and signature creations.

“Il dolce arriva dentro al cuore”

"We started in our family bakery back in Italy, in Bari, in the region of Puglia. My family owned a bakery there, and it all started with me and my brother, who’s also my partner," Pierpaolo remembers.

"Since we were kids, we worked in the bakery, and that’s where our passion for cooking and creating began. We both attended culinary school in Bari, and over time, my parents opened another bakery and then a restaurant in Bari.Later, I worked in restaurants across Italy before coming to Montreal and opening Panzeria with my brother."

"I’ve been in this industry my whole life... I love to create. Bringing ideas to life is something I’m passionate about. But it’s also about connection—making people feel at home, giving them a great meal, and creating memories."

"It’s hard work, but it’s worth it. Growing up in this industry, it becomes part of your DNA. Even when I stepped away for a while to work in retail, I missed it. There’s nothing like the satisfaction of seeing people enjoy your food and the experience you’ve created."

Birbante is located at 5386 Saint-Laurent Boulevard.