Bottomless Pete Reviews: Regashi

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Regashi

7 out of 10

$$ out of $$$$

• Address: 820 Atwater Avenue
• Phone: (514) 846-2040
• Website: regashi.ca
• Wheelchair access: Not without some struggles.
• Reservations: Right here.
• Vegetarian-friendly? Yup.
• Vegan friendly? Not really.
• Parking: Given the location, there's some, but not much.

So, Regashi opened earlier this year in January. It's a new izakaya, and one that's completely different from any other izakaya in the city at that, from the family behind Tri Express. Chef and co-owner Thierry-Tri Du-Boisclair leads the operation after working alongside their father, the chef Tri Du of Tri Express.

But it wasn't just that homegrown sushi tutelage that drew me in. Regashi's a purple neon-lit oddity in Saint-Henri, with an aesthetic I might think of as... bubblepunk? One of the more enigmatic interiors I've seen from the Gauley Brothers to date, almost intensely 1980s with a curved couch of a banquette covered in plastic, lots of concrete textures, black metal, and glass fixtures.

It is, as the kids say, a vibe.

And then there's location. I've known the stretch of Atwater that it's located on for some time now, and considering its seemingly inhospitable atmosphere: Hats off. It's no easy feat to make opening up on their block a success. It's between Saint-Antoine and Lionel-Groulx station, and while that may sound convenient, it's far from the action and constantly passed by the avenue's constant traffic. That could be why, on a summer night, they weren't opening up windows for the sake of noise.

But that was a problem that I'll get to later.

On the precipice of partying

Service here's attentive and informative, which works well with the food. If you're eating here, it'll quickly become evident that each of the fish imports and techniques merit the service giving you some detail with every dish you order, but it's not information overload.

That said, those who like to geek out a bit on their food may be left wanting, but something about Regashi's general vibe tells me that this isn't the place for that. It's more like a restaurant that's on the precipice of partying, rather than a meditative dining experience. That's an assumption, though; in the weeks following my visit, I could see the neon pulsing later at night above its curtains and silhouettes of people enjoying their drinks—I'd be surprised if that's the kind of place you could take the time to explain all the work that went into the products on a plate.

All in all, wine glasses were rarely left empty (and the options here are totally worth a splurge), questions were quickly answered, and recommendations came easily.

Chef's choice

It's hard to completely encapsulate what Regashi is all about, but I'll start here: Those looking for a new angle on Japanese cuisine should definitely try this place out. I'd go so far as to say that the food is one of the greatest highlights here.

On the à la carte side, about 14 different small bites and plates are on offer. Exploring these, the dressed oysters came out on top, served both cold with tobiko, green onion, and green apple or baked with bok choy tapenade, garlic, and king oyster mushrooms in sake with nori, and miso in a tobiko mayonnaise that's dressed with panko and green onion. Delicate slices of fish and beef carpaccio were both fresh and light as well.

However tasty, these were all light snacks that would usually be a single bite. Portioning at restaurants is a relative thing, but I would say anyone with a sizeable hunger might leave, well, hungry if they don't eat the whole menu.

That said, their six-course tasting menu for just $45 in both meat and vegetarian options still makes for a well-rounded meal (the only catch is that it's offered between 6pm and 8pm).

There are larger options that go from a bao bun filled with chashu pork roasted for 36 hours and topped with house pickles, crisp and crunchy tempura vegetables, the odd but delicious inclusion of pasta with mushroom ravioli or plates of sweet potato gnocchi, or the comparatively hearty donburi chicken bowls. As for the dessert of pandan crème brûlée, that'll be a welcome addition to any future meal here.

But the crowning achievement here is the fish, regularly imported directly from Japan and treated to the izakaya's aging room which gives the flesh a less fishy taste and more tender flesh that expresses some unique flavors and complexities. All of this is best explored with their omakase option, something I'd come back for.

One teensy thing

So, I mentioned early that not opening their windows was an issue. This is why:

The single biggest fumble of my night was that the kitchen decided to light the charcoal for their Konro grill closer to the end of my visit, and from what I could tell, they hadn't cranked up the suction on their hood, possibly due to noise. Maybe this was in anticipation of a busy night ahead, but the result was an acrid odour throughout the dining room and a headache.

I want, with all my heart, to believe I wasn't experiencing some mild carbon monoxide poisoning, but I did feel better after getting outside for some fresh air.

Regashi, if you're reading this: Please don't do that.

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