Long live Snowdon Deli: A photo essay tribute with Montreal's Craving Curator

I was raised on Snowdon Del. 

That’s not a typo. That’s what those who know Snowdon Deli call it—that, or ‘The Store’ or ‘The Deli’. 

Tucked away on the corner of Décarie Blvd. and Isabella Ave., this Montreal landmark delicatessen has been serving the city for over 70 years.

"Quality, our pride"

My first memories of Snowdon Deli weren't at the restaurant, but at Nana and Poppa Usheroff’s house. Fond memories of family gatherings and holidays, smiles, hugs, love, and— most of all, food: There was always, without fail, a rectangular box with a glowing ‘SD’ logo on it with the words ‘quality, our pride’. 

This box contained the ultimate snack, party sandwiches; Egg, tuna, and salmon salad, with a few cream cheese and lox rolls for good measure. Served on white bread, these perfectly cut, crustless bites always put a smile on my face. Meticulously packed, it was always evident when a few of them went missing before the meal, like pieces of a complete puzzle ripped right out from the middle. My old man and I always got in trouble for nabbing a few before the meal but it was well worth it!

It wasn’t just party sandwiches on the table though, but sticks of karnatzal, full sour kosher dill pickles, coleslaw, potato salad, eggplant, potato vereniki, chopped liver with fried onions, cheese blintz with jam and sour cream, bowties and kasha, cinnamon rugelach, and of course the bright, almost neon yellow chicken broth perfectly displaced by a few kreplach and matzah balls.

The food at these family gatherings was always so delicious that it truly left a lasting impression on me as a kid. I always wondered where all this goodness came from and as I got older, my pops started taking me to the source, the hub, the deli.

Snowdon Deli is more than just a place to eat; it's a second home, a community center where memories are made and shared.

The spirit of a landmark

Snowdon Deli is a time capsule. The décor’s white, black, and turquoise colour scheme exudes a retro '70s Miami vibe, but it's the warm and welcoming atmosphere that sets it apart. 

Hart Fishman embodies the deli's spirit. His friendly and generous nature, coupled with a sense of humour, keeps both the alte kakers and the younger generations coming back to kibitz with him week after week. For them, Snowdon Deli is more than just a place to eat, and much more than one of the last surviving Jewish-style delis in Montreal; it's a second home, a community center where memories are made and shared.

Fishman comes from a long line of restaurateurs, from the founding brothers Abe and Joe Morantz who opened it in 1946 to their children and children's children. The deli's current ownership and employees reflect a diverse blend of cultures.

With the passing of the original Snowdon brothers, the deli is now owned by their descendants: Ian Morantz (son of Abe Morantz) and his younger cousin Hart Fishman (grandson of Phil Morantz), Sophy Agelopoulos (daughter of John Agelopoulos, an owner and operator at Snowden for over 50 years), and Sophy’s husband Yanni Papoulis. These four make up what Snowdon Deli is today.

Hart Fishman is a real mensch. Upon my arrival, he welcomed me behind the counter but before getting to down to business he offered up a half karnatzal smeared with mustard and wrapped in rye bread. This is my love language.

Taking me on a full tour, Hart starts by proudly showing that Snowdon Deli has three floors, two of which are dedicated to production space and walk-in fridges. The main floor is home to the kitchen, restaurant, and pickup counter all interconnected with a vintage dumbwaiter to transport food from floor to floor. Guided through, I got to see how all the favourites were made fresh daily by hand with techniques passed down through generations.

The party sandwiches alone have their own production room with a devoted fridge, and 11 other well-organized walk-ins are equipped with everything needed to keep the takeout counter stocked, the catering business rolling, and the restaurant patrons happy and full.

The deli's success lies in its consistency, where the original Polish recipes of the family behind Snowdon's beginnings remain unchanged to this day. They still carve their smoked meat by hand, depending on a few highly trained individuals who have mastered the art of carving instead of automatic slicers for speed and convenience.

Snowdon Deli is a masterclass in how to run a deli. After years of raw experience, a mentorship from generations past, and a dose of chutzpah, Hart's advice is to not take life too seriously, something he learned from being a rambunctious manager at Eggspectations to a respected leader and successful business operator.

It's a place where you can fill your belly and your heart, a true Montreal institution that captures the essence of what it means to be a deli in this vibrant city. 

What to order

First time at The Deli? Here’s what you need to order: Start with a full stick of grilled karnatzal, served with rye bread and mustard). Follow that with a kreplach soup, and if there none left, opt for a matzah ball. 

Next, order the Club Roll, a sandwich stacked with grilled sliced meats on a toasted onion roll. Pair it with fries, a full sour dill pickle, and a Cott Black Cherry soda on ice to complete the perfect order. I rarely stray from this, but when I do, I go for the corned beef hash brunch plate.

If you’re still hungry, or you've got a sweet tooth, an order of cheese blintz or cheese bagelach will satisfy.

Simple joys

In a city known for its cultural and culinary diversity, Snowdon Deli stands out as a beacon of tradition, community, and delicious food. It's a place where you can fill your belly and your heart, a true Montreal institution that captures the essence of what it means to be a deli in this vibrant city. 

For those of us who have been coming here since we were kids, it's a place that holds a special place in our hearts, and a reminder of the simple joys that good food and company can bring.

Snowdon Deli is located at 5265 Decarie Boulevard.