When Martin Picard opened Au Pied de Cochon in 2001, it marked a turning point in Montreal’s restaurant scene. The Plateau dining room—with its open kitchen, oversized portions, and unapologetic richness—deliberately rejected fine dining’s polished restraint. Instead, it offered something primal and exuberant: foie gras on poutine, pig’s feet reimagined, onion soup turned decadent.

Over two decades later, the energy hasn’t dimmed. It’s still loud, busy, and totally committed to indulgence. Behind it all is a generational crew of chefs and collaborators—many of whom went on to leave their own mark on the city. What started as a singular brasserie on Duluth has grown into a larger food ecosystem, with a sugar shack, cidery, offshoots like the Cabane d’à Côté, and even a product line sold nationwide. Still, the flagship remains its heart. For those looking to understand Quebec’s culinary id, this is where you start. Bring friends. And maybe a napkin for your forehead.

This ode to Quebecois cuisine is essential eating in Montreal, served in a completely unpretentious fashion that takes diners to the very heart of what makes this province stand out.