Bona Fide now supplies Villeray with a bistro combining Rome, New York, and Montreal

Taking over the space once held by Paloma, the Italian restaurant Bona Fide opened in late October 2024 with all the makings of a place that romances Montreal: Dim lights, the smell of garlic and wine, and a team putting their heart into every plate and pour.

The restaurant’s a brainchild of two Liverpool House alums—Renaud Bussières and chef David Alfred—who had a meeting of the minds with partners Camille Laura Briand and Luigi Minerva during their collective time at Antonietta.

They sport a substantial collective CV, together earning stripes at places like Mal Nécessaire, Cloakroom, Nora Gray, Pamplemousse, Moleskine, and Atwater Cocktail Club over their careers.

The name Bona Fide—“in good faith”—sets the tone for what they've collectively created.

“We envisioned an old-school, Roman-style restaurant, like something you’d find in Rome’s Trastevere neighbourhood—fresh pasta, seasonal vegetables, oysters, crudo, and natural wine,”  Renaud explains. 

“We wanted to showcase Italian flavours but also draw inspiration from other regions. Our goal was to create a space with a vibe reminiscent of classic New York- or New Jersey-Italian joints, while keeping the food authentically Italian.”

Mangia, mangia

With about thirty seats, the setup is intimate, almost conspiratorial with a narrow, cozy space. Redesigned by Briand, the décor follows its inspirations: wood panelling, vintage chairs, low lighting, and vintage touches. All of this sets the stage for the food.

Once sous-chef at Liverpool House, David Alfred executes said fresh pasta. While more classically French in his technique according to Renaud, “he’s also fantastic with Italian cuisine. For us, it’s important that the chef has creative freedom, so he decides the menu.”

Creating a mix of small bites and hearty mains with a seasonal edge, the menu’s serving up Italian with French and Spanish influences. A cold side offers a crudo and oysters, while antipasti digs deeper with dishes like an endive salad and a duck & mushroom arancini.

Pastas are, of course, the main attraction—Alfred comes out swinging with dishes like a pappardelle ripiene (where the wide, flat noodles are stuffed), as well as cavatelli with ragù. Finally, duck breast is served with a madeira sauce while pork chop gets an autumnal touch with delicata squash, chestnuts, and apples in brown butter.

Drink-wise, Luigi Minerva’s cocktail list hits all the Italian classics: Sbagliatos, negronis, espresso martinis, and spritzes. But Bona Fide is wine-first, and it shows. Renaud’s wine selection is all about Italy, with a few nods to European heavyweights.

“Camille and I do tastings together, but I’m mainly responsible for the wine list. It’s challenging since we work with 25 to 30 wine agencies, which can be a lot to manage, but we’re getting there,” Renaud says.

Rome meets New York meets Montreal

But between the Roman-inspired dishes and New York-inspired décor, there’s Montreal-style service. 

“We focus on traditional pasta recipes, seasonal ingredients, and a friendly, informal approach to service,” Renaud says.

“It’s about connecting with customers like friends, offering them advice on dishes and wine pairings—something I feel is unique to Montreal and, to an extent, Quebec City.”

“Hospitality is in my blood. I love food, wine, and making people feel at home. If someone has had a tough week, and they leave here with a smile, that’s my greatest reward. Even though I come from a bar background, I’m passionate about creating a holistic experience that combines food and drink,” Renaud says.

“Plus, the Montreal restaurant community is collaborative—there are so many pop-ups and chef partnerships, and that sense of community drives me.”

La passione italiana di Montreal

Citing a strong soft opening with a waitlist for tables, Bona Fide’s arrival shows Montreal’s far from seeing one too many Italian-focused restaurants on its scene. 

“Italian food is popular here partly because of the large Italian community. And there are so many styles within Italian cuisine, and with the ingredients available locally, it’s easy to adapt Italian cooking,” Renaud says.

“Even classic dishes can be given a personal twist. It’s about standing out with our own signature.”

Bona Fide is located at 8521 Saint-Laurent Boulevard.