A Peruvian kitchen meets an Italian social club in Old Montreal with Capisco's bachiche cuisine

Since coming to Quebec in 2002, Chef Marcel Olivier Larrea has spent years exploring the culinary intersections between Peru and its diasporic communities, shaping them into Montreal restaurants that have made a mark along the southern half of downtown.

First came the city’s premiere destination for Nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese) cuisine in the form of Tiradito. That was followed by a neighbouring restaurant named Chifa, named after the Chinese-Peruvian culinary traditions it offers.

Now, with Capisco, Larrea is upping the ante with a menu and concept focused on Peruvian-Italian cuisine or bachiche alongside his partners David Dumay and David Schmidt. 

“Italian and Peruvian cuisines are some of the best in the world, and we’re among the first to present it this way in Montreal,” Dumay says.

Dumay notes how the name is meant to evoke that moment people take a bite of the menu. After all, ‘capisco’ is Italian for ‘I understand.’

“There’s a lot of competition here, but Montreal? It’s a city that’s open to new flavours. Peruvian cuisine is still new, but it’s gaining traction, similar to how sushi entered the scene here years ago.”

A long history informing the menu

“I believe restaurants should offer an experience, something unique you can’t make at home. It’s about creating a moment that’s worth returning for,” Larrea says. “There’s this chef who I worked for, Gastón Acurio, and he did something that I’ve followed: Refining Peruvian cuisine so it could appeal to a global audience.” 

“Here, I wanted to represent Peruvian food with a twist to make it approachable for everyone, and that’s Capisco: Peru has a history of blending Italian and Peruvian flavors. For example, in Italy, you wouldn’t mix seafood with cheese, but Italians in Peru did, creating dishes like lasagna with scallops and Parmesan.”

“We’ve adapted similar ideas here, like our ricotta gnocchi à la huancaina made with brisket, which brings in Quebec flavours with Peruvian lomosaltado… but this represents an old fusion, one that predates the term ‘fusion’ itself.”

Endeavouring to serve dishes that aren’t found in Montreal, Larrea’s menu—executed by chef de cuisine Ian Hebert—takes a lot of leaps and bounds. Those extend from a fritto misto-esque Mariscos Jalea a la Romana served with olives and tartare sauce to a carbonara spiced with aji amarillo, a Peruvian yellow chili pepper.

Even the bar leverages Capisco’s concept, thanks to Joseph David from Pelicano: Signature cocktails like the Rosa do Botija combines Italian Malfy Rosa gin and Campari with leche de tigre and Peruvian botija olive saumure nods to classic Italian flavors, while the leche de tigre adds a distinctly Peruvian touch.

There’s also the Sueño Vivido with Havana Club rum, Golden Bird pisco, Italian amaro, and chicha morada, a traditional Peruvian drink made from purple corn. The amaro brings an Italian herbal complexity, while chicha morada and pisco are quintessentially Peruvian.

“Coming from Peru, it’s a place where food quality is incredibly high,” Larrea says. "The culture is about never being satisfied of today, and we always strive to make things better for tomorrow. This is part of that.”

History over fusion

The Italian diaspora in Peru has deep roots, with waves of immigration dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The initial influx occurred in the 1870s and 1880s, when Peru’s booming guano (fertilizer) industry attracted Italian laborers. At the time, guano was one of the most valuable natural resources due to its high nitrate content, and Italy, along with other European nations, sought opportunities in Peru for economic advancement.

Later, the turmoil of the World Wars from 1915 to 1950 drove another wave of Italians to Peru, where they sought safety and stability amidst global conflict. Many of these Italian immigrants settled in Lima and coastal regions, integrating into Peruvian society while maintaining Italian customs, especially in cuisine and social clubs.

Over time, they began to fuse Italian culinary traditions with local ingredients, creating unique dishes that incorporated both Peruvian flavors and Italian techniques. This cultural blending influenced Peruvian food and dining culture, establishing Italian-Peruvian dishes as staples in Peru and later inspiring fusion concepts globally.

Montreal’s no stranger to bachiche necessarily, but it’s taking a different step forward at Capisco. What’s more Marcel finds a personal connection to the storied background of the food.

“Marcel has talked about this concept and recipes from his youth for a while,” explains Schmidt, who also acted as a designer for the restaurant. “This type of cuisine includes dishes his mom used to make, like stuffed pasta with sauce from ají de gallina (a Peruvian chicken stew).”

“The history aligns with this food style, and we’re now showcasing it in Montreal. It’s familiar, but unique at the same time.”

As much a Peruvian kitchen as it is an Italian social club

Capisco takes over the Old Montreal address previously held by the restaurant Papillon for 38 years. Many of its details remain, but partner and designer David Schmidt has taken it in a different direction. 

“It’s really Marcel’s expertise and vision that define this place. He found the space, had the idea, and asked what I thought. I could see a great design coming together that would stand out from other businesses in Old Montreal, and could offer a more homey feel,” Schmidt says.

 Schmidt describes a focus on materials that could have been found decades ago to imbue a sense of nostalgia: Wood, fabric, glass, and mosaic tile.

“So, because the concept is a nod to Italian immigration to Peru, that influenced choices like the tile, which is produced by a factory using methods that go back to the 1920s or 30s. We wanted materials that were timeless and reflective of a historical concept.”

The whole space features multiple gradations: A secluded table by the front door is neighboured by a staircase below custom chandeliers made up of bulbs and hanging fabric by the independent design agency Finkel'. On the main floor, large wooden archways bring the ceiling down to create intimate nooks, but one also finds an elevated bar opposite with booths and stools that look out over the room.

“Marcel’s been clear he didn’t want to create another cookie-cutter Italian restaurant. This concept allows us to offer something new, pulling from his heritage to create a unique experience,” Schmidt says.

“In essence, it’s Marcel’s recipes, inspired by his background, presented in a casual, approachable setting where everyone feels welcome.”

“This is very much Marcel’s DNA.”

Capisco is located at 85 Rue Saint-Paul Est.