The third-wave cider of Cidre Intrus, and a chemistry of place

When Cidre Intrus began making its natural ciders, the operation felt like an invader, crossing boundaries both spoken and unspoken in the world of cider production—like it didn't belong at first.

“None of us had any experience in the alcohol or cider industry,” recalls co-owner Pierre-Édouard Perron. He started the project in his father’s garage with three high school friends—Gabriel Boutin, Simon Rooney, and Charles Lapointe.

Back then, Pierre-Édouard and Gabriel were cooks, and with only a year of cider brewing experience under the former's belt, their efforts were little more than experimental microproductions.

“At the time, we felt like intruders because we had no background in cider. But during the pandemic, everything changed. Gabriel and I were supposed to go to Sweden for an internship, but when that fell through, we decided to jump into cider full-time.”

“Now, there are no boundaries in cider making here. I can experiment with different fruits, and fermentation techniques—it’s like my form of rock and roll. And the community of producers feels like a family.”

In the juice

The following years saw production grow exponentially, expanding into tens of thousands of bottles. In the spring of 2024, Pierre-Édouard’s original partners left, and he was joined by Cynthia Lee as co-owner. While Pierre-Édouard remains immersed in the cider-making process, Cynthia handles branding and communication. Together, they’ve set up an urban cidery in the St-Malo industrial park in Quebec City.

Although ownership has changed, the process hasn’t. Cidre Intrus continues to work with the same local orchards on Île d’Orléans they’ve partnered with since 2020, where 50-year-old trees are cared for by three generations of farmers. Cidre Intrus purchases ‘declassified’ apples—those that fall to the ground or are deemed unsuitable for sale, often destined for animal feed or hunters’ bait—to reduce waste.

I can experiment with different fruits, and fermentation techniques—it’s like my form of rock and roll.

“These aren’t traditional cider apples, so they lack some of the tannins and acidity needed for cider,” Pierre-Édouard explains. “That’s why we blend them with wild-foraged fruits like black currants and elderberries, or with organic ingredients from small-scale farmers—everything from flowers to honey and other interesting additions from around the province.”

Working out of an urban industrial space provides the freedom to remain experimental, similar to urban winemakers like Lieux Communs. The difference lies in how Cidre Intrus keeps things as local as possible, while adding complexity to the product.

It’s important to us that people get a taste of their backyard in every bottle, and reflect the places it’s been made from.

It makes much of what Cidre Intrus produces not only chemistry of making cider, but a chemistry of place, where the uniqueness of Quebec’s environment plays a role in shaping what’s produced, and expressing natural terroir in unique ways.

“It’s important to us that people get a taste of their backyard in every bottle, and reflect the places it’s been made from,” says Pierre-Édouard. 

“People have these preconceived notions that cider is just sweet, mass-produced drinks like Strongbow. But what we’re doing, especially with natural cider, is so different. There’s complexity, low sugar, low intervention, and a real focus on taste.”

So every batch has its own story, and Cidre Intrus’s unconventional approach creates easy-drinking ciders that bear enough complexity and consideration to be both crushable and refined.

“Nature plays a big role in our process, so there’s always a bit of unpredictability. Some of our ciders are meant to be enjoyed casually, while others have more depth, almost like wine, so we offer both styles.”

It’s about being a positive intruder in different spaces, creating experiences that might surprise people.

Creeping on the scene

Now ‘intruding’ on the scene in Montreal—where Cidre Intrus sees most of its action—the company has stayed true to form, spending the months following the new ownership creating events in unconventional settings: bakeries, hotels, clothing pop-ups, micro-farms, and design fairs like SOUK alongside the usual suspects of restaurants and bars.

“I love people, and I enjoy thinking outside the box,” Cynthia says. “We’re always looking for opportunities to place Cidre Intrus in settings where it might not seem to belong but somehow fits perfectly. It’s about being a positive intruder in different spaces, creating experiences that might surprise people.”

The approach is working. While ciders are increasingly finding space on restaurant and bar menus alongside wine, Cidre Intrus’ approach to branding and creating memorable experiences keeps attention bubbling.

A third wave of cider production

Despite organizations like Cidre du Québec and events like Soif de cidre Montréal gaining traction, “it isn’t quite there yet,” says Pierre-Édouard.

“It’s funny because when we go outside of Quebec and talk to people, they’re often amazed at what we’re doing here. From the outside, it feels like Quebec is at the forefront of natural cider production even though, but from the inside, it feels like we’re still trying to get people to talk more about it.”

It’s like we’re in the third wave of cider production. The first wave was in colonial times, the second in the 1970s, and now we’re seeing this new wave of natural, low-intervention ciders. It’s an exciting time, and I think Quebec has a unique place in the global cider scene.

Cider’s far from the fringes, however. According to Pierre-Édouard, parts of the world like Europe, especially in the UK, are seeing people drinking a lot of cider, “but it’s mostly the sugary, industrial stuff like Strongbow. But when it comes to natural cider, Quebec is really leading the way.”

Cynthia agrees: “We see other markets looking at us and saying, ‘Wow, you’ve got a booming industry,’ while we’re here thinking there’s so much more room for growth and recognition. But it’s great to know that on the international stage, Quebec cider, especially natural cider, is getting noticed.”

“It’s like we’re in the third wave of cider production. The first wave was in colonial times, the second in the 1970s, and now we’re seeing this new wave of natural, low-intervention ciders. It’s an exciting time, and I think Quebec has a unique place in the global cider scene.”

It’s a time of evolution that Pierre-Édouard and Cynthia—among the handful of industrial, experimental producers like them—are living through as Cidre Intrus is already eyeing international markets.

“We’re seeing more support from the SAQ (Société des alcools du Québec), which is opening up to more natural products. That’s a big help. But there’s still work to do to get people talking about cider more, especially outside Quebec,” Cynthia says.

Drink up the latest work by Cidre Intrus, and follow their latest developments here.