Pastoral detours: A guide to road-tripping through the Eastern Townships of Quebec

It only takes a day of driving through the Eastern Townships of Quebec to realize (or remember) that it has some of the most gorgeous scenery outside Montreal. Wherever you drive on its winding roads, you’ll pass through rolling landscapes that feel like source material for a Ghibli film, with their low mountains, lush meadows, deep forests, lazy rivers, picturesque farmland, and quaint towns dating back to the 19th century.

While a map of this area rich in pit stops may look scattered, everything’s well within reach if you know where to go. So take a day and make the drive: a journey around the region takes you through everything you need for a regenerative escape with farm-to-table food and wine, culture, easy hikes and candlelit evenings.

Morning, sunshine

Easy-going days start best between Bedford and Knowlton. Both embody the charm of small-town life, where locals spend time on lingering conversations with an unhurried rhythm, leaving you time to focus on moments of stillness.

Start with Caron & Frères for breakfast and third-wave coffee that emphasizes high quality in roasting and service in Knowlton, either on the front or back terrasses shaded by tree canopies in summer and warmed by an outdoor fireplace in winter. From here, stroll through the town’s mix of historic buildings, indie boutiques like Brome Lake Books or La Pantry de Knowlton for edible keepsakes, and antique shops. From here, an easy hike where you can take in the view from Parc des Sommets is a mere 25 minutes away.

For those inclined to keep it low-key, Bedford’s Atelier Tréma doubles as a café and ceramics shop dealing in thoughtfully crafted wares. Across the street, artisans can be found throughout the 14-foot-ceilinged industrial floors of the Bedford Lofts.

Take a break: Time for lunch

Still in Knowlton? You can’t go wrong with La Knowlton Co.; dating back to ​​2019, their wood-fired pizzas with their sourdough crust fermented for 72 hours and Lion’s Mane or smash burgers are all solid bets.

If you’d rather hit the road and keep exploring? Options abound here, and all of them are within easy reach: At Brasserie Dunham, their exceptional pub fare includes everything from pad Thai and tagliatelle to Korean fried chicken burgers and slices of pie.

Then there are the Mexican tacos and artful interiors of Gato in Sutton, a newer restaurant that’s come out swinging thanks to its combination of midday margaritas and well-executed classics of al pastor, birria, and other options. Meanwhile, Sauce Prune in Cowansville has made a name for itself by transforming local and organic products into dishes of dumplings, wontons, and noodles coated in chili oil with seasonal bubble teas to wash it all down.

Finally, suppose you only need a quick snack to keep you on the move, head to the Bedford-based casse-croûte Restaurant Barry. In that case, locals will likely point you here as many believe a visit to the area without a couple of steamies and poutine is somewhat sacrilege.

Lazy afternoons

By now, you’ll no doubt feel full, which puts you in a great position to get some shopping done. No groceries should be done on an empty stomach anyhow.

It’s an exciting time to do so in the region: the Eastern Townships are brimming with newer generations of beer brewers, coffee roasters, winemakers, confectioners, and more helming their roadside kiosks and curated boutiques with collections. You’ve got wheels with plenty of range left, so why not go straight to the source?

Those looking for a one-stop shop don’t need to go further than La Rumeur Affamée. Thanks to more than 20 years of business as a delicatessen, cheese shop and bakery with a large selection of charcuterie, sweets and products from all over, they've established locations in Frelighsburg, Sutton, and Dunham.

As for finding something to stow in your fridge or wine rack back home, stop at any one — or all, if you’re feeling ambitious — of these producers and purveyors: L’Autre Brasserie has made a name for itself in Bedford by making beer with simple, dry and crisp finishes thanks to yeasts from Belgian and Scandinavian brewing traditions. When it comes to wine, trips to the young gun vineyards of Vignoble de l’Ardennais, Soeurs Racines, and Maison Agricole Joy Hill are essential for wines made with local, biodynamic and raw touches. However, these are only open during the summer, so head to La Réserve Naturelle in Sutton during the colder seasons to acquire bottles from all of them.

If you prefer something zero-proof? Not a problem: Café Yamabiko in Sutton provides all the ethically sourced roasts you’ll need.

Dining as the sun sets

You’ll want to find yourself a table before sundown for one last taste of what the Eastern Townships have to offer. Restaurants at this time of day are particularly worth the trip, as chefs and their kitchens keep intimate connections with farms and gardens that cities can only dream of.

Some of the most ambitious tables with exploratory menus are only a short drive away: at Restaurant Aux 2 Clochers, new blood from the nearby seasonal spot La Passe-Montagne (now closed) has turned a Frelighsburg destination into an exciting new project. Over at Espace Old Mill, one can settle in for a long and deeply storied tasting menu that plucks ingredients directly from fields you can see through their dining room’s windows. Bromont’s Chardo is reliable for those hunting down organic and natural wines paired with wild and local dishes. If you’re strapped for time, you can simply stop and eat poutine under the glow of Chez Ben’s 50-year-old, nine-metre-tall neon sign.

Driving back with an afterglow

As you make your way back to Montreal, a day spent in the Eastern Townships ought to have left you with a mix of contentment from slow meals and stunning landscapes, paired with a renewed appreciation for the art of taking your time. Whether your trunk’s filled with finds from roadside shops and bottles of small-batch wine, or the scent of freshly roasted coffee is clinging to your coat, the region leaves you with more than just memories.

And if you’re driving electric, the road’s rhythm hums all the quieter, free of range anxiety with the city only an hour away. Take your time. After all, the Townships’ magic isn’t about how fast you get somewhere; it’s about savouring where you already are. 

Crack a window, let the country air rush in one last time, and trust that the next trip will come calling sooner than you expect.