Wild catches and Japanese imports with Sushi Nishinokaze in the Mile End

It’s a quiet night after hours at Sushi Nishinokaze in the Mile End.

Julian Doan, co-owner of this intimate, 8-seat Edomae sushiya alongside chef and co-owner Vincent Gee, has laid out a curated spread: Matane shrimp shiokara—salted and fermented as an old-school fishermen’s snack—sourced from the North West Atlantic around Îles-de-la-Madeleine and the Nova Scotia, young ginger from the Eastern Townships preserved from early fall, and British Columbian salmon roe lightly cured in-house.

The surroundings are equally curated. Designed by Montreal-born architect Justin Nguyen and Tokyo-based Taichi Kuma, the interiors combine modern minimalism with nods to traditional Japanese design. A long counter made of Canadian ash and sliding metal shoji-style doors form the backdrop to what is billed as a “living gallery.” 

Here, plates and vessels—some centuries old—are part of Doan’s personal ceramics collection, offering diners an immersive connection to both the art and the craft.

“We call it the living gallery because these pieces have survived wars, colonization, and revival. They’ve endured, and they’ll outlive us. Using them gives them new life,” Doan explains, referencing a 400-year-old moon jar from Korea’s Joseon dynasty featured in the space.

“The ceramics here aren’t just for display—they’re meant to be used, to live a life of beauty. For these objects to be in their most beautiful state, they have to be in use,” he adds.

This ethos applies as much to the space as it does to Nishinokaze’s painstakingly sourced menu, which features ingredients from both Canada and Fukuoka, Japan. Here, it’s as much about the culture and history of what it offers as it is about a place to eat.

“Edomae sushi philosophy says you should express your local natural surroundings. It’s about showing the beauty of what’s around you. That’s why we’re bringing in incredible local products and presenting them alongside imports. It creates context and contrast.”

The Edomae tradition

With only eight seats, Nishinokaze promises an omakase experience unlike any other in Montreal, past or present.

The sushi follows the Edomae tradition, which emphasizes precision, seasonality, and a deep respect for ingredients. Chef Vincent Gee, who trained extensively in Canada and Japan, ensures authenticity at every turn. The shari (sushi rice), made from naturally grown Japanese grains, is seasoned with artisanal red vinegar. In true Tokyo style, no sugar is added, allowing the rice’s natural sweetness to shine.

“If you have good rice, it should be naturally sweet. You don’t need to add anything else,” Gee asserts; the restaurant imports its own for greater quality control.

It’s a purist philosophy that informs every aspect of Nishinokaze’s menu, from the carefully sourced wild seafood to the intricate preparation techniques honed over years of training.

“I think beauty is universal. Whether it’s the sushi, the ceramics, or the music, it’s about connecting people to something meaningful. That’s what we’re trying to do here.”

While steeped in tradition, Nishinokaze also reflects its Montreal roots. The restaurant integrates wild catches and local ingredients alongside imports from Fukuoka. It’s no easy feat: For instance, that Matane shrimp from the North Atlantic underwent an eight-month negotiation process before arriving at the restaurant.

The 20-course omakase, as of its February 2025 opening, typically begins with three appetizers, or otsumami—a mix of cooked dishes and sashimi—followed by binchotan-grilled items and 17 sushi courses. These include 14 nigiri pieces, a classic kanpyo-maki (braised gourd roll), a tuna hand roll (temaki), and melon for dessert.

Seasonal variations dictate the menu. During Atlantic tuna season in spring and summer, about half the ingredients are locally sourced, whereas Japanese tuna takes centre stage in the winter.

“For example, we’re using this shrimp across four dishes—the head goes into the miso soup, and the miso itself is made with Quebec barley by a Japanese producer here,” Doan explains.

“Edomae sushi philosophy says you should express your local natural surroundings,” Doan continues. “It’s about showing the beauty of what’s around you. That’s why we’re bringing in incredible local products and presenting them alongside imports. It creates context and contrast.”

“The intent of the cuisine is to present the beauty of wild, natural products. We aim to source exclusively from the wild because that’s the only way to truly taste the expression of nature,” Doan says.

"The logistics are insane"

Creating this level of focus and intent takes time. Doan speaks candidly about the challenges of opening Nishinokaze, from navigating Montreal’s economic climate to sourcing rare ingredients. 

“The logistics are insane,” he admits. “You’re cold-calling fisheries, dealing with brokers, and navigating import regulations. It’s a constant hustle.”

But the effort is worth it. “This is about more than just food,” Doan says. “It’s about showing people something beautiful, something they’ve never experienced before.”

Beyond the sushi, Nishinokaze’s story is one of passion and perseverance. Doan’s journey from ceramics collector and jazz enthusiast to restaurateur reflects his ethos of pursuing what he loves. Every detail—from the art lining the counter to the hard bop jazz playlist filling the air—feels personal and intentional.

“I think beauty is universal,” Doan reflects. “Whether it’s the sushi, the ceramics, or the music, it’s about connecting people to something meaningful. That’s what we’re trying to do here.”

Forget the caviar and truffles

Nishinokaze is the result of its co-owners’ shared obsession with sushi. Doan’s long-standing fascination with Japanese culture, which began in the 1990s and evolved through stints as a caviar importer, converged with Gee’s culinary journey. Gee, who worked with Jackie Lin at Shoushin and Masaki Saito in Toronto, also spent time in Tokyo at Nishiazabu Sushi Shin honing his craft.

During the pandemic, Doan discovered Gee’s work through a mutual connection and was struck by his commitment to tradition—eschewing trends like caviar and truffles in favour of a purer approach.

“For people who know real Tokyo sushi, they like Vincent’s style,” Doan says.

“He’s not your typical sushi chef with a big ego. He’s very down-to-earth, happy-go-lucky. It creates a different vibe at the counter, which is uncommon—it’s not intimidating like many omakase experiences can be.”

Eye-opening experiences

Even before its official opening, Nishinokaze has quietly welcomed curious diners in January, and their reactions have been more rewarding than Doan could have hoped.

“For someone to experience sushi for the first time and say, ‘I didn’t know local seafood could taste like this,’ or, ‘I’ve never had anything like this before,’—that’s powerful,” he says.

“It makes all the hard work worth it. This has been a long time coming, you know?”