Romies: Creating a contemporary American bistro with midcentury charm

Bringing together proven expertise in creating and running local haunts in the city, partners in life and business Alexandre Cohen and Raegan Steinberg of Arthurs Nosh Bar have created Romies, a contemporary American bistro in Old Montreal.

“Romies is the culmination of everything we felt we wanted to experience in Montreal: quality casual dining that was accessible, quality ingredients, and just a fun vibe,” says Steinberg.

“I think that Romies is really just going to become a comfortable place that feels like it's been here forever.”

Taking on the address that once housed Boris Bistro—including the enviable terrasse that’s lain out in the shadow of an heritage stone façade—Romies has created an entirely new place out of old bones, but maintains an old-school atmosphere.

Sprawling, luxuriously cozy, romantic

Working with designer Annika Krausz, whose portfolio includes transforming Mile-Ex’s Bar Alexandraplatz into Bar WILLS and working on Lawrence, the interior at Romies reflects the warm, throwback ambiance you’d find in midcentury gems of the States.

Think ‘luxuriously cozy’: Leather banquettes the colour of red wine, a dining room full of candlelit marble tables, and warm wood walls dotted with black-and-white photographs by Krausz's father Peter Krausz and paintings by Krausz's grandfather Tibor Thomas Krausz fill the space. The front is lined by a small bar backed by gold-tinted glass, while the right-hand side of the room looks out onto a heritage courtyard with enough room for games of pétanque via a floor-to-ceiling window.

Romies might seem sprawling at first glance, but from a table, diners will be able to see how it has been divided to allow for a variety of energies: Some tables cater to romantic tête-à-tête, while others are bigger for family reunions or a loud evening with friends.

“Working with my husband on a new project, you’d think we were experienced, but it's a whole new monster.”

Elevating nostalgia

A semi-circular opening in the back wall of Romies peeks into the kitchen led by Cohen, and his team includes Nicholas Giambattisto (Liverpool House, Un Po’ Di Più) and Melissa Wood (Graziella).

“Alex's best attribute as a chef is elevating nostalgic dishes,” Regan explains.

Their menu speaks for itself, featuring playful yet comforting spins on plates that match Montreal tastes with that of an upscale diner. Short and sweet, the appetizers emphasize fresh focaccia, salads, and dishes like beef tartare with Russian potato salad or roasted peppers with homemade stracciatella.

Mains are more ample, with options like grass-fed filet mignon and marinated oyster mushrooms, a classic burger and fries, pork ribs, or a Venetian dish of cherry tomatoes, pasta, and hazelnuts served with white wine-steamed clams.

Desserts follow that same sentiment of staying classic, with Leigh Roper (previously of Foxy) at the helm. Her list includes a strawberry cheesecake sundae, a Brooklyn blackout pie with Oreo whipped cream, an apple pie for two, and more.

“The desserts are crazy,” Reagan adds. “Usually you end (a night) on like kind of like a (womp womp noise),” she says. “Not with these desserts. These are amazing.”

On the liquid side, Franck Roche, who pulls experience from the closed Lorbeer and bustling Warehouse, orchestrates the vast salle alongside sommelier Léa Viens (Poincaré Chinatown).

Together, they have curated a selection of old-world bottles and fun natural wines—roughly three pages, enough for variety but not so much as to leave you picking for 20 minutes—as well as a long list of classic and modern cocktails.

Romies is located at 465 McGill Street.