A royal road trip: The Chemin du Roy between Montreal and Quebec City

A historic and scenic road trip guide to three diverse regions of La Belle Province.

The Main

The Main

January 22, 2025- Read time: 8 min
A royal road trip: The Chemin du Roy between Montreal and Quebec CityPhotograph: Pierre-Nic Lessard / Destination Québec cité
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Ce guide est également disponible en français.

Quebec’s Chemin du Roy (or King’s Road), Canada’s oldest highway, is a scenic route along the St. Lawrence River often overshadowed by the faster Trans-Canada Highway.

But for avid drivers who want to explore the open road, this pathway originally laid out in the early 1700s to connect Montreal and Quebec City is an essential trip. As the road winds through three regions — Lanaudière, Mauricie, and Capitale-Nationale — you’ll visit as many small villages and pastoral landscapes as you will urban centres.

Photograph: Simon Laroche

Ideal for a day trip or a leisurely weekend escape, every location reflects centuries of history and the stories that come with them. It’s a journey where you can trace the footsteps of 18th-century travellers while you enjoy modern-day treasures along the way.

This 300km stretch offers everything you’ll need to taste local flavours, soak up culture and experience the quiet beauty of the countryside and the incomparable energy of cities.

Heading out further afield 

Start your journey in Montreal and head to L’Assomption, where life follows the natural rhythms of farmland. Here, you’ll find a wealth of places to visit and experience first-hand how some of the province’s best food is grown and made. 

There’s Ferme Cormier, a farm that’s been in the Cormier family for nine generations, where you can explore which fruits and vegetables are in season and — if it’s warm enough out — you can pick yourself. There’s also the 100,000-square-foot greenhouse complex of Les Serres Point du Jour, where you can learn about their agri-food research and how they grow food year-round, or the seasonal strawberry and raspberry farms of Gaétan Roy Strawberries.

Get back in the car and enjoy the drive to Lavaltrie, where culture and comfort collide. Pause at the Café culturel de la chasse-galerie, a lively community hub offering coffee, art, and live music. Already hungry? Consider a stop at Rôtisserie La Victorienne for a comforting plate of rotisserie chicken with all the fixings. It’s a solid bet if you’re feeling peckish—they’ve been making that classic dish since 1989.

A taste of Trois-Rivières

Before you head into Trois-Rivières, take a deep dive into local history at Le Magasin général Le Brun, a curiosity that’s part general store for regional goods, part museum, and part performance venue that’s unlike anything else on this trip.

With that short visit under your belt, it’s time to head into the city. As the fourth-largest urban centre in Quebec, it’s a unique place of rich heritage, offering beautiful panoramas of its namesake trifecta of waterways. Lunch options range from the refined coziness of Épi, buvette de quartier to gastropub fare at Le Temps d’une Pinte. For an elevated experience, try Le Buck or Poivre Noir, where a building dating back to 1757 and scenic views pair beautifully with expertly crafted dishes, respectively.

If you haven’t visited any farms at this point in the journey (and it’s summertime), consider a slight detour away from the St. Lawrence River to Ferme Éthier Les Fruits Soleil to pick fresh blueberries, strawberries and Saskatoon berries to either eat right away or to take as fuel for the road.

The savory and the sweet in Deschambault 

The next leg of the journey takes you through Deschambault, a charming village where indulgence is mandatory. Casse Croûte du Roy is a locally celebrated stop for some of the best poutine in Quebec, while the chocolatier studio of Julie Vachon Chocolats features artisanal treats including handcrafted chocolates, ice creams and confections such as chocolate hazelnut spread and raspberry marshmallows; they’ll all make for an excellent souvenir — or a treat, if you’re too tempted to taste what you pick up.

And if you haven’t quite had your fill of bucolic settings, you’ll want to visit Cap-Santé. Only 12 minutes away, it won’t take long to see why it maintains its status as one of Quebec’s most beautiful villages, with its cobblestone streets and the iconic Sainte-Famille Church.

Evening in Quebec City 

Arriving in Quebec City is the grand finale of your journey, deserving a celebration of its own. The scene here is full of art, culture, landmarks and architecture, ranging from the impressive collections of the Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec to the innovative performing arts and preservative design of Le Grand Théâtre de Québec.

Don’t skip the historic sites of the Château Frontenac or the Plains of Abraham, while saving time to explore the fortifications that make Quebec City the only remaining walled city in Canada and the U.S.

From here, it’s time for dinner. If you want something more casual to fuel you up for the trip home — you’ve got the range to do so, after all — pick up pastries at Borderon et fils, and browse the Grand Marché de Québec for gourmet goods.

If a longer experience is of more interest, you’ll want to reserve a table ahead of time. The delicious Italian simplicities of Battuto, or contemporary bites from its sister restaurant Melba, are highly praised for their consistency in both quality and service.

Buvette Scott and Kraken Cru provide equally intimate, ingredient-forward experiences complemented by a curated wine list and excellent cocktails. Finally, Le Clan offers a menu steeped in Québécois tradition and terroir, while the Michelin-calibre restaurant Tanière³ transforms local ingredients into culinary artistry.

A bonus pitstop in scenic Île d’Orléans 

As you’ve made it this far, avoid the regret of missed opportunities and carve out time for Île d’Orléans, an area known for its bounty of food and drink.

Visitors often flock to Cassis Monna & Filles to sample their blackcurrant liqueurs or to enjoy a relaxed meal at their in-house restaurant La Monnaguette. If time is more limited, consider stocking up on artisanal chocolate at the Chocolaterie de l’Île d’Orléans, see how farmstead cheese is made at Fromagerie Ferme Audet, or explore the wide selection of jams and preserves from Confiturerie Tigidou

With every stop, Île d’Orléans reveals a piece of its charm — an invitation to slow down, savour its offerings, and carry a little piece of its magic back home. Few places offer this blend of natural beauty and artisanal craft, making this island an essential chapter in your journey along the Chemin du Roy.

Homeward bound, wherever that might be

Whether you’ve opted to stop in Île d’Orléans or simply head back, you will have participated in an authentic Quebecois experience. Driving along this stretch of the Chemin du Roy means you will not only have explored this historic pathway in its physical form, but also taken time to appreciate its distinct culture, its institutions and the prideful nature of its people.

You may not get to see and do everything in this guide, but rest assured: Every time you take this road, detours and all, no two trips will ever be the same.

Photograph: Simon Laroche

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